![]() When it’s firing on all cylinders, the dining room might as well be a trattoria in a parallel universe where wheat flour never existed. Senza Gluten bills itself as the “first completely gluten-free Italian restaurant in Greenwich Village,” which may be true. Tall bottles of cold brew (supplied by Jack’s), with coconut cream and cardamom, are compelling enough that you may be prompted to experiment with making your own at home. Pappads, rebranded here as “lentil crisps,” top each large-portioned bowl. A ranchlike yogurt sauce can be ladled over bowls, and the serrano-based house hot sauce has a decent kick. ![]() Add-on proteins include salmon with a sour tamarind veneer, and nice, beefy short ribs. Goofy names aside (Cauli-fornia, Sas-Squash), they come loaded with stuff like tangy carrots, mild coconut chutney, masala chickpeas, heirloom carrots roasted with vadouvan, and an unwieldy but flavorful paste called charcoal eggplant. The nearly two-year-old proto-chain is less hyped than those (admirable) spots, but its vegetable-intensive bowls are worth following. The Californian-vibed and “Indian-inspired” fast-casual spot tends to get lost in what could be called the Kale Triangle of salad places, like the Little Beet and Sweetgreen in central NoMad. If the options make the opulence worthwhile, all the freebies - from the amuse-bouche-like “assaggi” at the beginning, to the edible rice-paper-wrapped caramels and “sour patch” cantaloupe segments at the end - also make a meal here a lot of fun. There’s even a deluxe multicourse option for gluten-free vegetarians. While dairy is present in some options - like the revelatory focaccia with an orb of crème fraîche - servers are quick to navigate deftly around any celiac-associated lactose intolerance. ![]() Orecchiette is nicely thick and dimpled, coated with sticky meat jus in a rustic dish of charred lamb-neck sausage ribbons of no-gluten pasta swirled under a cap of Pecorino frico have better-textured spring than their wheaty analog, and diners can truffle it up with plump parcels of bauletti stuffed with sheep’s-milk ricotta as a supplement. Here, the Cup4Cup-based pastas are heartening and delightfully al dente. ![]() Ladner left this year, but Melissa Rodriguez capably channels her own point of view into the menu, which is good news because, invariably, celiacs say pasta is their most-missed food. An uptick in special diet requests led Mark Ladner, Del Posto’s former executive chef, to develop the restaurant’s superlative gluten-free program. ![]()
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